construction



Sachetto A special method of slip lasting is used where the lining and the insole are stitched one by one to the upper, resulting in a self-contained lining envelope.This means fewer - and more discreet - seams, maximising comfort and movement. Bologna

The leather used to make the upper is also used for the insole, creating a soft feel. The upper is sewn onto the sole following the Blake construction. This artistic work with this form of construction allows the shoe to remain exceptionally soft and flexible.

Rapid Blake

One of the rarest and most difficult constructions made still today by only a few qualified craftsman. The first of the leather soles is sewn onto the insole; the second sole is attached and sewn onto the first. Finally the expert artisan completes the construction with the milling, filling and coloration. This work is extensively done by hand. The double stitching provides the sole with greater elasticity and comfort. The result is a shoe of absolute quality and incomparable refinement, able to last for many years.

Goodyear Welt

Goodyear Welts is a traditional method for the making of dress shoes. A Goodyear welt provides a durable shoe which may be re soled numerous amounts of times. The upper of the shoe is shaped over the last using a synthetic strip or leather linen known as the welt. The thread helps hold the material firmly together. The welt creates a cavity which is filled with a cork material to help cushion the shoe and provide an odourless scent. The last part of the Goodyear welt attaching the sole to the welt, which provides high solidity and longevity.

Blake

Blake stitching provides a light weight thin sole shoe with an upper, insole and a sole. The upper and the insole attach to the last. The sole is glued on a single row and a machine stitching used to attach the sole, insole and upper. There are many advantages of Blake stitching; it requires no stitching on the sole edges allowing the soles to be closely cut. A shoe that is Blake stitched is very flexible, as there are fewer layers in the sole.

Vulcanized

A shoe construction technique in which rubber is heated in a mould to form the bottom of the shoe, then the upper and sock is placed into it. The rubber heats up making it impossible to separate the rubber components as they are fused together. Vulcanized constructions are very strong and will not be weakened by the immersion in water.

Cemented

Cement construction is a commonly used method. It requires using special adhesives bonding the sole of the shoe to the upper. The wet upper is the lasted and left to dry. Once dry the upper is glued to the insole all the way around. The next stage is to cut the sole and soak it. Once fairly dry but still pliable it is glued to the bottom of the shoe and hammered to compress it. After securing the insole by the means of cement, it is then heated and pressure activated. A Cement construction provides a lighter shoe and with wear will become flexible.

San Crispino construction

A type of stitchdown construction that provides a wide base of support for heel stability. The upper material is flared outward, and wrapped around and under the edge of an extended insole board. The upper is stitched close to the last and cemented to the sole.